After escaping the Valley of Tears and Mountain of Endurance through the almost lethal endless Tunnel of Smog, I decided to relax and do nothing for a day or two. Today I sat and read my book as the bike was stripped down and serviced (11 quid including an oil change), ate momos and wandered tranquil markets. India without a guide book is an India I simply never knew. Bike now roaring, I'm rested and finally dry. I got a spare bike key cut (been playing on my mind, just having one) by an enterprising bunch of lads with a pile of blank keys and a metal file. Smiles and happiness all around, Kullu City is a relaxed place. All good.