Despite insomnia I was up at 8am, searched for food but only the grubbiest little dhaba was open and I couldn't face it, so decided to eat en route. Bike starts first (well, second) time but cuts out after a few minutes at idle. Eventually I worked out that it was out of petrol! This means the service used up a good few hundred rupees, as they used it to clean crank case and car etc! Luckily the reserve kicked in and I refuelled just outside of town - full tank for 950Rs.
Journey here easy and trouble-free. Himalayan foothills in sight, road not great. Bike fine. Stopped and had an Alu Parantha at 10.30am. Unfriendly, but good food.
Manali has changed in twenty years :) I managed to find Old Manali - ask, ask ask - and then Geeta Cottages where Shri Ram recommended. Met two of his group, he'd left that morning. I'm planning on staying a few days - to relax and do nothing!
I have a sore throat and funny stomach. Not great.
Had a beer by the river (Rs140) then a quick nap. There is supposed to be hot water, we'll see! Met jewellery-maker Canario and a local pleasant fixer called Sanjay. The owner here is 'Vim'.