The church is dark inside, black roses burn next to open coffins, each containing parts of corpses dressed up in their old finery. Piled up around each body are old possessions, postcards, candles, notes, pine-cones. At one side of the nave a party of mourners are dressing up the top half of a dead woman, there are angry mutterings when they see me - I'm clearly not welcome - so I turn around, and walk straight into a giant of a man. We stare at each other then he falls on me, fitting, possessed by the spirit of his dead wife, the others crowd around, praise be! This is a holy event. I try and crawl out from under him, but each time I move he screams until I lie still.